The Evolution of Spice

If you like spicy food - and I love spicy food - then you'll find this report from Harold McGee's blog rather interesting. It concerns the evolution of capsaicin, the pungent chemical that makes chilis so spicy:

Levey, Tewksbury and colleagues tested the theory that capsaicin selectively repels rodents and other grain-eating mammals, which would chew up the chilli's seeds along with the surrounding fruit, while having no deterrent effect on birds, which have no teeth, swallow the fruits whole and defecate the seeds intact. They monitored wild chilli plants in Bolivia and in Arizona with video cameras, and found that only birds ate the fruits, as the theory predicts. Interesting sidelights: in past studies, lab rats frequently fed hot chillis have developed a strong liking for them, just as many humans do. And the wild species that were monitored, Capsicum chacoense and Capsicum annuum, bear fruits with a significant oil content, unlike our domesticated varieties. Oily chillis could be an interesting new ingredient.

Of course, that still doesn't explain why capsaicin tastes "hot," and why spicy food "burns" our tongue. For that, we need to investigate the physiology of taste. It turns out that capsaicin binds to a special class of vanilloid receptor inside our mouth called VR1 receptors. After binding capsaicin, the neuron is depolarized, and it signals the presence of spicy stimuli.

But here's the strange part: VR1 receptors weren't designed to detect capsaicin. They bind spicy food by accident. The real purpose of VR1 receptors is the detection of heat. They are supposed to prevent us from consuming food that is too hot, in the thermal sense. (That's why our VR1 receptors are clustered in our tongue, mouth and skin.) So when they are activated by capsaicin the sensation we experience is that of excessive heat. We start to sweat and get the urge to drink lots of water. But that pain is just an illusory side-effect of our cell receptors. There is nothing "hot" about spicy food.

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We start to sweat and get the urge to drink lots of water.

Mistake. Water doesn't do any good. Capsaicin is not very hydrophilic. Next time, try a mango lassi with that.

And next time, ask for ghost chilis. They're hotter than a habanero.

By Mustafa Mond, FCD (not verified) on 02 Mar 2007 #permalink

Fascinating, Jonah. Those VR1 receptors do not seem to be restricted to the tongue. I still love eating spicy food, but the delayed effect has gotten harder to take as I've gotten older, alas. As the friend of a friend put it a couple of days after eating a particularly searing curry (hear this with an Edinburgh accent): "It was hotter goin' out than it was goin' in!"

...tested the theory that capsaicin selectively repels rodents and other grain-eating mammals, which would chew up the chilli's seeds along with the surrounding fruit, while having no deterrent effect on birds...

Hence "squirrel-proof" bird seed for your feeder, which (to my surprise) works quite well.

By Scott Belyea (not verified) on 02 Mar 2007 #permalink

This has been running around in the rabbit-nest of my head for some time, why have I heard of people getting blisters from eating hot food? After all, it is a fairly innocuous chemical binding to a receptor, there shouldn't be any "there" there.

Yet, blisters.

By Robert P. (not verified) on 02 Mar 2007 #permalink

I'd guess the blisters are caused not by the capsaicin itself, but from a too-vigorous inflammation reaction--your body's response to the perceived injury.

Hence "squirrel-proof" bird seed... undercut by in past studies, lab rats frequently fed hot chillis have developed a strong liking for them.

I've heard at least one tale of squirrels "making the leap" -- the witness claimed the squirrel would eat a few seeds, "wipe" his snout and "chuff" for a few seconds, then repeat.

Yet, blisters.

I can think of at least two mechanisms: Firstly, besides the taste, capsaicin is an irritant to mucous membranes -- thus its use in "pepper spray", the modern successor to Mace. I wouldnt be too surprised if it occasionally irritated normal skin as well, let alone if it gets into a cut.

The other possibility is weirder -- consider that we also have heat receptors in our skin, and those get triggered by capsaicin as well (thus its use in athritis creams). Even if there's no "real" insult to the flesh, it's quite possible that some folks could get a psychosomatic burn....

By David Harmon (not verified) on 02 Mar 2007 #permalink

I've heard at least one tale of squirrels "making the leap" -- the witness claimed the squirrel would eat a few seeds, "wipe" his snout and "chuff" for a few seconds, then repeat.

My observation is that they don't stay very long ... and after trying it a few times, they don't bother much at all.

By Scott Belyea (not verified) on 02 Mar 2007 #permalink

I'd guess the blisters are caused not by the capsaicin itself, but from a too-vigorous inflammation reaction--your body's response to the perceived injury.

My observation is that they don't stay very long ... and after trying it a few times, they don't bother much at all.

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This has been running around in the rabbit-nest of my head for some time, why have I heard of people getting blisters from eating hot food?

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