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scubacraig.jpg Craig is temporarily a post-doctoral fellow at the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute who is looking for a permanent position. He spends most of his time balancing his overwhelming geekdom with normalcy so he can function in the real world. Luckily his wife likes his geekiness.



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Challenging The Mavericks and Why The Surf Gods Love Geologists

Posted on: January 13, 2008 4:28 PM, by CR McClain

Image from surfersvillage.com.  Surfer catching wave at Mavericks

The Mavericks competition was this past Saturday bringing in the best dozen or so big waver surfers (invitation only!). The best word to describe someone who spanks waves reaching 20-30 feet, historically they have reached near 50? Cajones. Let us not forget the freezing water and jagged rocks. You can see all the pictures here (note picture 27!).

I mentioned in the past if if you want to know where the good surf spots are sure you could ask your local bro', or you could gather some geologist and map the seafloor at high resolution. Sure the first might cost you at most a cigarette and beer while the latter requires a multiyear grant that rivals the budget of a third world country. I still vote for the mapping. We should get Ron Jon to fund geology research!


So what causes these incredible waves? Surfing gods? Nope, it is a long gradual continental slope that provides a ramp allowing waves to hold before breaking. This combines with deeper and calmer water on both sides of the ramp that cause a wave convergence.

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Comments

1

"The best word to describe someone who spanks waves reaching 20-30 feet, historically they have reached near 50? Cajones."

Cajón (with an 'A') is a Spanish word which translates as "box" or "crate." Cojón (with an 'O') is the word that means "ball" or "testicle."

Posted by: Todd Martin | March 30, 2008 10:29 AM

2

wow thanks for that

Posted by: CR McClain | March 30, 2008 11:00 AM

3

Mavericks is one of the best surfs spots in the world, next to jaws (peahi), i am 17 and i have surfed here a couple of times and its amazing catching 20 to 25 foot waves, i want to become a professional big wave surfer someday!!

Posted by: Zack | May 19, 2008 9:19 AM

4

I like this place! I love the idea and wish there was a place like this in Astoria, Queens. I am a surfer and found a "real surfer bar" in Point Break NYC. I am kinda jealous ;0PIts filled with surfers, people who like surfers, people who like the beach and people who don't want to live close to town. I really like this place. You know what they have these real Proctor and Channel One surfboards on the wall. It's nice for coming any day of the week and eating a late brunch. The food was outstanding. The brunch and sides were prefect and tasty. It is a perfect "escape" from city living. It is probably one of the only places where you can get a nice frozen pina colada or margarita. The service was on hit. They came up and checked on us so many times and made sure everything was up to par. It gets very active and the bartenders keep everybody having a good time. The bartender was very accommodating. He was nice enough to make a drink, that wasn't on the menu, for me :0) Did I mention the bartenders are nice eye candy. It was amazing to see their ā€œdas bootā€ which is shaped like a boot filled with beer. Don’t get me wrong, I am not drunk…it’s an actual boot shaped beer container ready to be emptied. Try it ..You will love it!! Oh. How can I forget, they even have a wheel o' shots where you just have to spin it and have to drink whatever shot it lands on!! Now call that bar creativity at its best!!! And when I spill a tray full of shots on myself, the bartender so kindly remakes them for me? Good music, too, and the decor helped us weather an otherwise overcast and rainy day. You know that old song "Brandy"? It goes, "Brandy, you're a fine girl, what a good wife you would be. But my life, my lover, my lady is the sea." I believe Brandy works here. No reason, I just do. And that song happens to be a guilty pleasure of mine, so that's a plus in my book. You can simply waltz over to this colorful and warm establishment, enjoy some drinks with friends, and walk home. The bar is right at the center, so you can walk to either side for drinks, and the bartenders are friendly and at your service. There is a variety of seating, good music, and friendly neighborhood people to make your time more enjoyable. Not pretentious, very cozy, I think Point Break is a fabulous place to spend some time with friends.

Posted by: Davis Miller | March 3, 2010 3:09 PM

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