just before noon. “It looked like it had never been open,” he said. “It
was deserted.” When he finally got there at a time when meat was still
available, he was convinced. In fact, he was rhapsodic, particularly
concerning the brisket (“as soft and sweet as cookie dough”) and the
pork butt. Smith believed that Burka’s description of the latter–”the
butt was tender and yielding”–was in need of some editing, but, without
having to consume any critters personally, he was persuaded by Burka’s
I love my Calvin Trillin.