Shifting Baselines

It took mammals and reptiles over two weeks on a raft of floating vegetation and a stroke of luck before they reached the Galapagos Islands. For Homo sapiens, it requires ~$400 (from Quito) and a few hours before arriving at the Galapagos airport.

From there, a boat tour is assuredly the best way to island-hop through Darwin's laboratory. If you have a bit more time than money, wait until arriving in the Galapagos to book your tour. This way you can explore the island of Santa Cruz (a launching point for most boat tours) and, in your downtime, meander into the numerous travel agencies on the main street to explore your options and last-minute specials (in some cases, as much as a 40% discount).

In Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz's once charming and now verging on overcrowded central hub, it becomes evident that humans are now the dominant mammal species on the island. The demographic includes a number of resident Galapagueños (Galapagos born and raised), immigrants from the mainland, and a potpourri of international scientists and conservationists. Not surprisingly, there are also a fair number of tourists, particularly in the high season (December-March and July-August).

Some of the first settlers slept in caves; fortunately, you can seek out shelter at any number of the modern hotels on Santa Cruz. Once you've settled in to your room there are a number of things to begin exploring. You won't want to miss the Galapagos mascot--the giant tortoises.

Lonesome George, the last of a remaining race of tortoises from Pinta Island, is living out his final days at the Charles Darwin Research Station. Visit George at the station and the number of other captive bred tortoises or see them in the wild--hire a personal taxi for ~$10 per hour and visit El Chato or Steve Devine's farm where tortoises roam freely. If you visit during the warm season (January-June), you are likely to see mating behavior, some of it perhaps a little desperate--frustrated male tortoises sometimes try to mate with other males or boulders.

After tortoise spotting, enjoy any number of the other natural features on Santa Cruz. Tortuga Bay is a pristine, soul-cleansing beach two miles from town. On a sunny day visit the peak of Punturo (3 hour hike roundtrip) and you will be rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view of the islands. Beware on any hike and stay on the trail as the scenery lends itself to disorientation and, over the years, several tourists have perished after losing their way.

After exploring Santa Cruz, you will certainly build up a healthy appetite. A small strip of restaurants called the Kioskos serve Ecuadorian style comfort food with a tasty array of meant dishes. Savor the ceviche, Ecuadorian seafood stew made with locally caught fish and shrimp (on second thought, don't!). If your diet is more characteristic of the algae chomping marine iguana, seek out cheese-filled empanadas on the back streets or dine at any of the restaurants on the principal street, Avenue Charles Darwin, that offer vegetarian options. Tropical fruits are always in season. Stock up on juicy mangoes, papayas, coconuts, guava and other fresh produce at the weekly early morning Saturday market.

Go beyond Darwin's terrestrial voyage and venture into the Galapagos underwater world with any one of the many dive outfitters. The Galapagos are globally acclaimed as a shark destination where you can tranquilly swim along white tips, Galapagos sharks, and hammerheads. Bring a mask, snorkel glide along with the sleek and acrobatic Galapagos sea lion. These charismatic creatures are hard not to love as they playfully tug on your fins and twirl underwater.

You will undoubtedly be charmed by the island life of Santa Cruz and the underwater thrills of the Galapagos marine environment--perhaps charmed enough to want to stay permanently. Because 97% of Galapagos is considered to be a National Park, there are strict rules against staying. Almost the only way to obtain permanent residency is to marry someone with permanent status. If you do find a permanent resident, keep in mind that only a handful of avian species in the islands choose a mate for life.