Say hello to delecata, a high grade specially filleted piece of North American farmed catfish. This new name was created with hopes of boosting the profile and profits of a struggling industry. In The New York Times Magazine, Paul Greenberg tells the story of U.S. southern fish farmers competing in a global marketplace and a catfish by any other name.

You can put lipstick on a catfish but it’s still a catfish. A new name, though? That’s another matter…