Stanage, youth

DSC_4359-black-hawk-area

Climbing! Good grief, it was about time. So, dragged out by the irrepressible Howard, we left the house at the ungodly hour of 7:30 on a fine Sunday morning, picked up young Viv, and drove for 2:30 climate-destroying hours up to the Peaks. Where to? Stanage, youth, of course. Popular end, naturally. Persons of the party: Me, Miriam, Miranda (8), Vivien (9). Daniel (12) mostly climbed with Howard (antique) and Louise (lets not do any more shall we) and survived a fairly full-on day; also Carl and Marcus and a late arrival from Helen (not as-in-Viv). Howard happily had his magic bag of old Whillans harnesses, and even enough shoes for D, E and V. Plus his usual patience and enthusiasm for instructing and infecting beginners. Thanks!

We British aren’t very well off for mountains, alas. And Cambridge is about as far as you can hope to get from decent rock in the UK. So the nearest to us are the various edges of the Peak District, of which the largest is Stanage Edge. It is a bit like the picture above, continued for 4 miles (except not quite, because that is some of the best bits). I often think how weird all this is – if you travel to any old bit of the alps – Grenoble, Ecrins, Stubaital, wherever – you’ll find vast areas of vastly superior climbable rock that no-one even bothers with because there are better or more convenient bits just round the corner. But (somewhat like the beauties of Bonsai trees perhaps, of Chinese ladies feet) the contraints imposed lead to wonderful climbs. Not that I’m capable of leading (or even following) the best of those. The pic above shows the Black Hawk area. The chap only just off the ground R-ish is on Black Hawk Hell Crack (which my guidebook assures me is a Severe, 2*, I lead 15 years ago); slightly R of that is Blizzard Chimney (just above Miranda’s head, and trending into the corner hidden by the prow) a humble Diff (1*) I lead today. And very pleasant it was too, though Darling Daughter got a little sad at the difficult move at 2/3 height. The blue chap on the far L is probably on Black Hawk Bastion, E3 5c, and he is welcome to it.

DSC_4363-flying-buttress A bit further L is Flying Buttress, and the chap here is on the classic 3* V Diff called, with great originality, Flying Buttress. The slab is very pleasant, and there is even some gear; the crux is getting into the open corner just L of his helmet, and it is rather harder than it looks (or has any right to be on a V Diff; that is the troulbe with V Diffs on Stanage and indeed gritstone in general; they have “traditional” grades that don’t always correlate particulrarly closely with their difficulty).

And so a final Moderate to make the girls happy: so good, they both demanded to be allowed to do it twice, and we indulged them.

Now, all we need to do is train the children to stay for a curry in Chesterfield and all will be perfect.

Comments

  1. #1 bigcitylib
    2010/04/18

    They invented escalators so you wouldn’t have to engage in that kind of nonsense.

  2. #2 Brian Schmidt
    2010/04/19

    Very nice! Nothing wrong with having fun on the small stuff, esp. while you’re waiting for bigger trips.

    I’m hoping to get in some easy climbing in Yosemite in a few weeks (easy is all that I do).

  3. #3 SCM
    2010/04/19

    I’ve been up a few Stanage routes with Howard myself when he was at Oxford. It quite takes me back…

  4. #4 Adam
    2010/04/19

    If this was Saturday, the we were wondering round Higger Tor with the little ones (20 months & 4 years) that day. Stopped to watch people climbing (but mainly bouldering) on Burbage rocks. Always wished I’d taken up climbing (to at least a small degree). Might not be too late now, but probably is. I just walk and scramble instead.

    [Ah, it is never too late. But I have no idea how you get started. My technique - join BAS and fall in with some peple - doesn't gernealise too well -W]

  5. #5 Adam
    2010/04/19

    Thought you might say that ;) I do have a climber mate, but don’t see him that often these days and even his activities seemed to have lessened. Anyway it’ll have to wait until the kids are older. Maybe I’ll potter down to a nearby climbing wall when the eldest is old enough to have a taster-session. We’ll see.

    Or I could try and join BAS… :/

  6. #6 crandles
    2010/04/19

    >”I’m hoping to get in some easy climbing in Yosemite in a few weeks (easy is all that I do).”

    Guess that means El Capitan is out ;o)
    http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-The-Nose

    Bit of a difference in height to pics above.

    Easy is stay at The Ahwahnee and enjoy the views ;)

  7. #7 guthrie
    2010/04/19

    Correction – you English aren’t well off for mountains, here in Scotland we have lots.

    [Well, sort of :-). No snow+ice in the summer, no glaciers. And they are a bit small. Compared to England they are great; compared to the Alps they are foothills :-( -W]

  8. #8 Paul Kelly
    2010/04/19

    All mountains are well off if they allow deep thoughts.

  9. #9 Brian Schmidt
    2010/04/24

    crandles – we might try Goodrich Pinnacle:

    http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Glacier-Point-Apron-Goodrich-Pinnacle-Right

    Much easier than El Cap, but still pretty tough for me.

    Not sure I feel about leading runout 5.7 stuff, and 5.9 is too hard to lead. But one of my partners is pretty good, so maybe he can lead and then I can saunter up all safe on toprope.

  10. #10 Brian Schmidt
    2010/05/06

    My version of a similar post, from Yosemite last weekend:

    http://backseatdriving.blogspot.com/2010/05/weekend-climbing-in-yosemite.html

    [Thanks. 5.8, 5.6... means nothing to me :-). Of course I could look it up. You have bigger cliffs than us :-( -W]