I never thought it would happen, but here we are. I can smell the ocean, hear the wind in the coconut palms. My arms are leaden from swimming, my shoulders reddened by the sun.
A little while ago, I was body surfing. When you catch a wave—really catch it—you are weightless, and it is magnificent. But even the missed waves have their surprises. A large breaker sneaked up behind me, brown with sand, capped with white, and tried to take me. It could have—if the ocean wants someone, it will take them. But it didn’t, and after it passed, it left a pool of calm. Out of this pool leaped dozens of small slips of gold, making a snapping sound as they broke the water. The sounds of the wave and the fish covered everything else, and suddenly I felt them—innumerable pops on my legs and trunk as the shoal passed.
I think I’m going to like it here.