After the 1999 Clinton/Clark bombing of Belgrade, almost all of the ruined buildings were quickly torn down and replaced with modern buildings, perhaps out of spite (which is the national character trait). After all these years, the city is unrecognizable - it is cleaner, livelier, prettier, more modern and more optimistic than ever. Replacing the bombed buildings was also good for everyone's sanity here - to forget quickly, move on, build new...
But, if you arrive in Belgrade by bus, by train, or by plane (and then take the bus into town), one of the first things you will see are these two buildings - enormous old buildings that used to house some of the governmental and military headquarters (my Mom used to work in one of them). They stay there as a reminder, almost a monument, and also as a 'Welcome' sign to the tourists from abroad:
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